Sunday, April 26, 2015

April 26, 2015

We have had a busy month here, with a visit to the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center, the Khmer New Year, trip to Kep on the coast, school and teaching English Classes.  I started working with the beginning class this week and hope to try them on Skype in a couple more weeks.  Some of them have minimal English speaking skills, so it will take a bit more to prepare them to skype - however, they try hard and are eager to speak with others in the USA.  The beginners will only speak for 15 minutes with their conversation partner (the more advanced have been speaking for 30 minutes).  It will take us some time to make sure they have the vocabulary for that!

At the beginning of April, the boys and I took a tour of the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center with BetelNut Tours.  It took us about 2 hours in the back of an open jeep to get there as it is south of PP in the Takeo province.  We had one other tourist with us - a woman from Florida who was trying to travel for two years on just her Social Security Income.  I may be adventurous - but she has me beat.  She was staying in a hostel with some young 20 somethings who had entertained her the evening before after a night of bar hopping.  Not really my idea of a good place to get some sleep - must be getting old.

The Phnom Tamao Rescue Center takes in exotic and endangered animals that are injured or have been pets and are no longer wanted.  One of them is a tiger that someone was raising in a home in PP until it got too big!  Also there was an assortment of crocodiles, otters, monkeys, birds, deer, an iguana from Central America, boars, snakes and sun bears.  I've posted some pictures on Google Drive under April 6th if you want to see some of the native Cambodian animals we saw.  The first two pictures are of the Buddhist Wat that is close to our house.

As mentioned in my last post, most of the students went home early in April for the Khmer New Year.  The boys and I caught a bus near Central Market the Saturday prior.  Because of the traffic and crowds leaving town, our bus was over an hour late getting there.  Once we boarded however, it was air conditioned and comfortable.  However our 3 hours ride was closer to 5 hours - traffic and occasional stops at various towns along the way to pick up one or two travelers and drop them off down the road slowed us down.  The scenery was a welcome change from the city and the boys had electronics - so we were all fine.

Once we got to Kep, which is on the Gulf of Thailand coast in Cambodia - close to the Vietnam border, we caught a tuk-tuk to our hotel.  I had been worried as you never really know what you've booked until you get there, but it was great.  It was across the highway from the Gulf (rocky area - no beach) and within 200 steps of Crab Market - which we went to for lunch and dinner.  It was about a 15 minute walk to the beach.  We stayed in a nice bungalow - they had about 8 so it was a small place.  The grounds were beautifully landscaped and most days was swarming with butterflies attracted to all the flowers there.  It had a small pool that Jon and I were in every day - some days 3 times.  It also served a nice breakfast and had a good cocktail hour!

While in Kep, we hiked around Kep National Park which is small hills/mountains and jungle.  After walking on a pretty level path about halfway around the park, we decided that we needed to get back to the beginning which we could do by going up and over a very steep, jungle path.  I forgot my camera this day, but just image very steep.  At one point, there was a rope tied between trees to help you pull yourself up.  It took us about an hour to take our "shortcut" - up and down.  At the very bottom of the path was the road.  I was so excited to see it I forgot to watch my footing and took a big tumble.  Both boys were scared I'd really hurt myself - I did get bruises on the back of one knee where I came down on a tree branch and bruises on my rear end (so glad that is padded) - and dirt on my pants, but nothing serious.  There was a small open restaurant  down the road on the side of the mountain also where we stopped for lunch and to let an afternoon storm pass by.  We were really glad we were not on the steep path at that point as it was hard to keep your footing when it didn't have water pouring down it.   It was a beautiful view and the boys and I had banana and chocolate crepes.

The rest of the trip was spent relaxing around the pool, playing at the beach and eating crab, shrimp and squid at Crab Market.  Luckily for the boys and me, several places also offered pizza, hot dogs and hamburgers.  They got what they wanted and so did I!

The upcoming weeks will also be busy as Maureen from Sustainable Schools is coming out to help wrap up some of the projects we've been working on long distance over skype (SSI is located in Fort Collins, CO).  We will be interviewing to find someone to take my place as well as a full time Cambodian to be the Leadership Academy Manager.  Some of the wonderful students here have taken on some of that role since the past LA Manager left early March.  We are also meeting with some government officials, networking with other NGO and working on writing out procedures and policies for the new staff.

Only 5 weeks left!  It's hard to believe it has gone so fast.  We are looking forward to going home but I know I'll miss the wonderful students and staff I've been working with the past 4 months.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_LWGul2UlSaUDZhaWlqcGUtN1U&usp=sharing

Saturday, March 28, 2015

Khmer New Year does not begin for several weeks - April 13 - 15 this year - but the students here at the Leadership Academy as well as most around the country of Cambodia are excited and happy it will be here soon.  Many of the student had semester tests last week and this week and did not have to go to school for several days.  Some of the students are already back in their "home country" which is their village and will not be back in Phnom Penh until April 19.  It seems very similar to winter break for most Americans.  Today, Jonathan and I were hanging out in the room being bored when upstairs I could hear giggling, laughing, and screaming.  After about 10 minutes, I thought perhaps I should make sure the students weren't doing something that they shouldn't be...after all, I live with kids that range from 14 - 23 years old.  Jon and I discovered that they were so ready for New Years that they were playing some traditional new year's games in the open area on the third floor.  The first game called boss chhoung - I was familiar with because my kids had played it at Cambodian Heritage Camp in Colorado.  It's like dodgeball with a rolled up scarf  - about the size of a softball and tied so the ends can be used for throwing and swinging.  Two sides face off and throw to the other side.  If you catch the scarf, you are fine.  If the scarf touches you and you don't catch it, the students here were putting baby powder on your face.   Jonathan played for over a half an hour (I took pictures).  

Another game they played later in the afternoon was called Boss Ongkunh (Augkunh).  Ongkunh is a vine that has a fruit with large seeds/pits inside.  The students had found a little dirt and each side had three of these seeds sitting upright in the dirt in a triangle shape.  The object of the game was to knock over the other sides seeds by tossing more of the ohnkunh pits.  The losing team got their knees 'tapped' with the seeds by the winning team.  Of course, it was boys verus girls.  I was a bit confused at  first because I thought they were tapping each others knees with the pits to see if they could get a reflex (duh).  But the tapper had two of the pits in their hand and they were trying to make a noise with the pits when they tapped the other person's knee.

One of the students told me that new years is a great time for boys and girls because they don't get to mingle much in the countryside and this gave them time to get together and get to know each other.  I found it very heartwarming to think that in this age where many kids know too much about the opposite sex, that this "old fashioned" approach of playing games together provided a safe way to meet..   Some other games we've played with the students here have involved just sitting/kneeling in a circle and doing various counting/clapping type games.  When you don't have a lot of money to buy toys or games or electronics, people do find fun ways to enjoy each others company.  I look forward to learning more games from the students over the next couple weeks as we approach the Khmer New Year.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_LWGul2UlSaUDZhaWlqcGUtN1U&usp=sharing

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

March 17 - Halfway point

It's been a long time since I posted - we are still doing good here, but have been very busy.   Planning for the two English Zone classes has been taking me 8 - 10 hours per week (Yes, I am a bit OCD - that is what makes a good SLP), teaching them another 6 hours, supervising the English Zone skype conversations between the USA and Cambodian students - 4 to 5 hours.  Another of my responsibilities at the Leadership Academy has been trying to get procedures into writing - which became more of a priority when the Cambodian staff who has held the Leadership Academy Director position took another job.  The transition has been fairly smooth - most of the things he was doing can be done by the older students until a new person is hired - but a lot of work between here and the SSI office in Fort Collins getting it organized.  Thank goodness for skype.

Other than that - just been taking care of the boys (& myself).  We were able to visit with Brian's two birth-brothers last month (we met them 3 years ago), as well meet his birth-mom, his brother's new wife and baby girl and a half-brother.  The trip was 3 hours outside of town in the countryside and Mr. Ken took us.  He was my driver when Carol and I came to Cambodia in 2002 to pick up Brian.   It was good to catch up with him again as we have corresponded for over 10 years.  At Brian's request, I will not be posting any pictures or discuss the visit in detail, but I can say we had a very nice visit and hope to see them all again before we leave.

We also had a great trip to Siem Reap - and I've posted WAY too many photos on Google Drive
https://drive.google.com
The ancient temples of the Khmer kings are located there -  Here's a little internet blurb

Angkor translates to mean 'Capital City' or 'Holy City'. The ruins of this holy city are the remnants of the Angkorian capitals and represent the pinnacle of the ancient Khmer architecture, art and civilization.
The Angkor Wat temples were built between 800AD to 1300AD. During this time over 27 kings ruled this large territory, about 400 Square kilometers (250 square miles) in north western Cambodia. The temples are thought to have been abandoned around the 15th century. They were built by the Khmer Empire which was one of the greatest powers in South-East Asia. The 'Khmer' refers to the dominant ethnic group in modern and ancient Cambodia. It is estimated that at its height of rule the population contained more than one million people. The temples are not only impressive because of the beauty. It is also amazing to marvel at the vast waterworks and military defenses that were put in place. They were quite advanced for their time.
http://www.angkor-temple-guides.com/angkor.aspx
We initially planned on going by ourselves, but were invited to join another family from the boy's school, the Workman's - Karen, Phillip and their daughters, Laura and Teresa.  Susan Sain also joined us.   I met Karen and Susan through Logos where the boys are at school - both are special education teachers - and wonderful people to travel with.  I learned how to bargain better with the tuk tuk drivers and market vendors by watching them!  We did three half days at the temples and spent the rest of the time swimming, resting, shopping, and eating.  The first evening, we rode elephants up a hill to watch the sunset over Angkor Wat.  The next morning, we toured Ta Prohm, which is the least "restored" of the temples (where Angelina Jolie was filmed for screens in Tomb Raider) and the Angkor Thom complex (Bayon, elephant terrace, plus more).  That afternoon was spent swimming and the evening we went to traditional aspara dancing.  We got up and left at 5 am to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat.  It was beautiful and worth the early start.  After resting/swim, we went to the Cambodian Culture Village and saw more traditional dances, a wax museum and miniatures of Cambodia's famous buildings.  That evening we enjoyed an Indian dinner.  A great vacation for sure.
For the most part, all of us have been healthy.  The boy's have managed to avoid the traveler's tummy problems - but not me - luckily it was the day we came home from Siem Reap and I was able to sleep for 5 hours once we got home. I also discovered it is very easy to get dehydrated here and Gatorade is expensive.  I finally learned about Royal D, which is a powder that comes in a variety of flavors and is intended for rehydration.  I've felt much better since I started drinking one or two glasses a day.  As it is getting warmer and warmer, I start sweating (or "sparkling") as soon as I get up (and during my sleep most nights).   When I'm teaching, the students just look at me sometimes and go get the floor fan and turn it on me without me asking.  Must be sparkling for them also.



Thursday, February 12, 2015

Feb. 12, 2015

I'm considering investing in the loudspeaker rental business as I think you'd make some serious cash here.  It appears that any major event, such as a wedding, funeral, house warming, or regular party is an occasion to be shared with the neighbors - via a pair of gigantic loudspeakers.   For the first month, I only heard regular parties at an earsplitting  95 db or more - weddings and blessing of houses.  Most would begin about 7 am and end around 11 pm.

For four days last week, beginning around 5 am (or that might just be when it woke me up), a funeral was being conducted somewhere in our neighborhood.  One of the students told me that in the countryside, the proceedings can begin around 3 am and go to midnight so I guess I can't complain.  If my research is correct, when someone who practices Buddhism dies, it is seen as the end of one life and the beginning of another -hopefully better.  One of the students told me that the "master of ceremony" - which I think is a senior level  Buddhist monk called an achar -  conducts the ceremony.  This involves chanting in a language that most Cambodians can not understand for up to an hour at a time.  The chant is to calm the spirit and prepare it for what is next. The number of days that the chanting can occur can be up to seven days depending upon the family and their means.  The first four days, the seventh day and the hundredth day are the most important.  The student felt that the deceased must have been an important person for the proceedings to start so early in town and go for so many days.  In between the chanting, traditional funeral music was then played - loudly - and it was melodic gongs, cymbals, and xylophones. We had quiet (relatively - if you don't mind constant construction noise, dogs, roosters and chickens) for a couple days, then on day 7, the music and chanting began again.  This time I think there were two things going on - the 7th day of the funeral and a wedding since occasionally, it sounded like people live talking and telling jokes.  The next day, it was only the wedding music, chanting and the people talking on the loudspeaker.

 I've uploaded a couple short video clips of the chanting and music on the Google Drive Cambodian photo file if you wish to hear it.  While the student said that this is "traditional", I'm assuming the ceremony part only, since loudspeakers were not around 40 - 50 years ago!

The boys and I went with two of the students to visit the Royal Palace last weekend.  The buildings and grounds are impressive and we saw some valuable statues made of emerald and diamonds.  The boys got tired of it pretty easy, but since it only took an hour and a half they toughed it out (mostly after I bought them ice cream).  A small band was playing traditional Cambodian music - I have another clip of that.  It's easier on the ear without the loud speakers and we watched it for awhile.

The English classes and skype conversations between 8  OSU students and 15 of the Leadership Academy students have started.  I'm finding it much easier to plan for the intermediate English speakers than for the advanced beginners, but I'll get there eventually. It's taking a lot of time to plan and some other things are getting pushed to the side.   I think most all of the students on both sides of the world are enjoying the conversations once they get past the nerves.

I hope next week to travel out of Phnom Penh to Siem Riep to see Angkor Wat  and the other temples - we are thinking of taking the bus since flying is expensive. - That takes 7 - 8 hours, but we'd see the countryside I'm told!  Hopefully all of us will be over our head colds by then.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_LWGul2UlSaUDZhaWlqcGUtN1U&usp=sharing

Sunday, February 1, 2015

One Month

February 1st - I am having trouble believing we have already been here one month.  This week was spent on preparing and beginning the first English classes here with the "more advanced" students.  I still needed Phearith, the Cambodian staff here, to translate some in class as I've not been able to separate the lower intermediate students from the upper intermediate students due to scheduling issues.  (reminds me of work scheduling the clinic at OSU).

I felt kinship with the graduate SLP clinicians this week as my nerves were in tangles before the first class.  Deep breathing and positive statements helped me through (and probably over 8 hours of planning).  Group one has 6 members and once we got started, things went well.  I'm trying to develop lessons a little different than a typical ESL class as the students are preparing to speak with their conversation partners over the topics we cover in class.  Of course the first lessons will be on "getting to know someone" as the Cambodian students will be paired up with the USA students.  Maps, vocabulary words about directions, geography, food and family - this is where I'm leaning for the start.   Group 2 has 9 members and I'll start with them on Monday.

Several of the special education/remedial teachers from the boy's sister school, Asian Hope, have asked me to consult on some of their students.  I met with one on Monday and was able to give her some suggestions.  Sure wish I had brought my LiPS program with me.  Thanks to Ashley Webb I've gotten scanned copies of the most important parts of it.  Next week, I'll also meet with two other teachers to talk with them about their students.

I'm also on the look-out for anyone in Phnom Penh who does high school guidance counseling - and may have a lead.  One of the teachers from the boy's school pointed me in a good direction.  The high school students from the rural area that are living in the dorm with us have limited exposure to different professions and are a bit clueless as to what some of the careers they are looking at involve - both what they would actually do in that field as well as what training is needed.

I've been lost at the market wondering about all the different varieties of fish and wanted to try some.  Today, one of the students, Rat Mom, rode bicycles with Jonathan and me to the farmer's market to help us pick out fish.  (In Cambodian, the family name is listed first and the given name is second.)  Mom helped me pick out "Chrakeng", a small silvery fish.  Jonathan almost threw up at the market due to the different aromas and all the fish, pork, and chicken hanging out.  He decided then that he wasn't going to eat any fish.  Mom helped me clean and marinate the fish in salt, sugar, and Knor's chicken powder!  Then we fried it upstairs in the student kitchen.  As the smell of frying fish moved out of the kitchen into the computer room, several of the young men came in to see what was cooking.  They were happy to find out that I had more than enough for myself and planned on sharing with the students.  Mom made a sauce/salad to go with the fish of mango (a hard, tart variety), sugar, salt, soy, chili pepper, and another fish - don't know its name, but looked like a sardine that had been dried.  All of these ingredients were mashed together for the salad/sauce.  We ate it with rice and another dish that the male students had cooked of pork, cabbage and Knor's chicken powder (which I guess is the favorite seasoning for fish and pork.).  Jonathan dared me to eat the eyeball of my fish - so I did - very crunchy - just like the skin since it was fried.  I posted on Google Drive  of the days events - but not me eating fish eyeballs.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_LWGul2UlSaUDZhaWlqcGUtN1U&usp=sharing

This week, I'll teach 6 English classes and orient the OSU students who have volunteered as Conversation Partners.  Then on Thursday, I plan to  start the conversations between the students here and the volunteers there.  Hopefully, Skype and the internet will be working here - always a bit of a gamble.  Probably will be a rough start - finding headphones and skype passwords - but I'm sure it will all pull together in a time or two.


Thursday, January 22, 2015

Friday - January 23rd
It's been a busy week for me as I've started meeting with all of the Leadership Academy students to learn more about them and their English language needs.  I've been able to meet with 19 of the 34 so far and their skills range from extremely basic - Hello, How are you? to excellent conversations about their families, education and life goals.  By next Sunday, I'll have met with all of them and will  be ready to start some English classes for them.  The following week, I plan to get those ready connected with Conversation Partners in the USA - and to work with the Conversation Partners on the best ways to use Skype and promote learning over the internet.

Additionally, I have met with several different agencies here and begin networking.  I've had followed up contact with the Peace Corp - SSI is working with a school in the Aural district to request a PC education volunteer as well as with the medical clinic located there to request a medical volunteer.  I've also been able to visit Don Bosco Vocational Institute which is located about 1/2 mile from the Leadership Academy to gather information on admission criteria - some of the students who are in the LA have had difficulty passing the 12th grade examination which is required to enter the university settings.  SSI wants to be able to guide the students into appropriate vocational training institutes in addition to the university.  Don Bosco offers associate degrees in Automotive, Electronic, Welding, Computer, Electrical, - and also training in Printing.  It was very interesting visiting their campus and we were warmly welcome.  Their mission is to help the very poor - which all of our students are - and I hope that soon, we;ll be able to have more students from the Aural district be able to be trained in some of these fields.

I've also visited several free English classes that the LA students take and one new English school that just opened down the street.  I really want to know what is available to the students already so that we can create the English Zone as a school that will fill in some of the gaps in their English education.

The boys and I attended the annual school carnival last Saturday at LOGOS - reminded me of home!  Jonathan's class was running the bowling game - which he helped at for about an hour and Brian's class had a Haunted House (a classroom).  Both had a great time and I was able to meet some of their new friends as well as some parents and other administrators.  I've connected with the special education coordinator and plan on going to their sister school - Asian Hope - on Monday to observe 4 children who need speech therapy services.  Hopefully, I'll be able to work out a few mornings a week to go and work with them and their teachers.  Who knows!  Maybe when I get back to OSU, we will be doing Skype speech therapy with Asian Hope as part of the clinic.  They do not have many SLP services her in Cambodia it seems....

Both boys have told me at separate times how much they like their new school and the new friends they are making.  That is wonderful because if they were unhappy, it would be a lot harder to be here.
Neither of the boys are very adventurous eaters.  Last week, we tried jack fruit and dragon fruit.  Yes on dragon fruit, No on jack fruit (I liked both).  Jonathan has tried an curry potato pastry served at school and is beginning to develop a taste for that (India) -Brian wasn't too sure about that.  At school, they alternate days between Asian food and "american" - some they are eating and some they are not.  Brian will just eat a giant bowl of rice if he doesn't like the menu that day.  Jonathan said one day he only ate a piece of bread.  I figure when they get hungry enough, they'll try more.

I will  posted more pictures on the link - of the carnival, the local market, and street noise....

Thursday, January 15, 2015

Things continue to go smoothly here.  On Sunday, we ate dinner with the Leadership Academy students.  They had made Lok Lak - I didn't take a picture and wish I had.  It was stir-fried beef on a plate containing lettuce, boiled eggs, tomatoes and cucumbers.  It was served with rice and several different sauces - I like the peppery one better than the spicy.  The boys enjoyed it also.  After dinner, they taught us several group games that only involved our hands.  I hope to teach these to the cubscouts when we get home!  It was a lot of fun and really seemed to loosen the students up.  Some of them are pretty shy.  After playing games for about 30 minutes, each student introduced themselves to me.  Phearith, the Cambodian staff who coordinates the Leadership Academy students, was impressed that all of them spoke English and were able to say their name, age, grade level and if in the university - what they are studying.


Monday, Jonathan and I traveled on motorcycle with Phearith to the English class that he teaches for the students in the community.  One of the classes was for beginners and the other was "conversation".  Jon and I joined in on the recitation of words and were "partners" for the scripted dialogue in the second class.  The students enjoyed asking Jonathan read the script with them.


Tuesday night, we ate again with the students to celebrate Paul Chuk's birthday.  it was also an opportunity for the students to tell him how much they appreciate him and how much they will miss him as he is retiring from SSI soon.  It was another excellent meal and a very touching experience to watch the students thank their mentor.  Paul will be missed by all - me too as he's been the one helping me figure out how to shop and get around town!  He's only a phone call away he says..hope he doesn't regret that.


Wednesday, I went to Logos for their Parent Teacher Association (PTA) meeting.  It was very similar to Will Rogers PTA meetings.  The president was thrilled to have about 25 parents show up and needed volunteers for several things.  I volunteered to help with the school Carnival this Saturday and to help come up with ideas for Teacher Appreciation Week.  Being that the world is really a small place, another of the parents there knows Suzanne Hermanski - a fellow Hunter, Oklahoma citizen who now runs a Kayaking business in the northeast province of Cambodia.  I had just e-mailed Suzanne to say Hello and she had told me about her friend who had two children at Logos - where the boys go.  So of course, that afternoon, her friend is sitting two chairs away from me.  I hope to continue to meet more parents at Logos as many of them work for NGOs and other organizations here in Phnom Penh.  Networking for resources for Sustainable Schools and the Leadership Academy is one of my goals here!


I also met with another parent on Thursday who works for Asian Hope (which runs Logos) and World Team.  She is an educator fluent in Khmer who leads professional development courses for Cambodian teachers and administrators through Asian Hope/World Team.  They are looking to start offering training to teachers in the rural communities and searching for organizations within the communities that have ties to the schools and village leaders.  This may turn out to be a good opportunity for improving the teacher's education at the 7 rural schools that SSI works with.  Even if it does not, she also is an adoptive mom with a 9 year old son from Cambodia - and we had a long discussion about being adoptive parents.


Today, my bike tire was still holding air, so I took off on my own little adventure after walking the boys to school.  I made it safely to the open air market about a mile and 1/2 away.  I've been there several times now with Paul and some of the students, so I just went back to the stalls we had shopped at.  The vendors recognize me and I know what the prices should be - being that I stand out a bit, I didn't want anyone to charge me double!  I was able to purchase more bedding so we would have extra when what we are using is being washed and air dried.  I also bought some excellent looking broccoli, tomatoes, carrots, green beans, and pineapple for less than $4.00.  I also bought some jack fruit - which I have never had.  It tastes good, but is not a familiar taste.  We'll see if the boys will like it.  We are also going to try dragonfruit soon.


I've been posting more pictures on the drive.google link.  Check them out!